Textile overproduction: the shortcomings of recycling in Europe

Currently, only 12% of textile waste is recycled or reused in the European Union, a very low figure compared to other materials such as cardboard or glass.

Most textile waste from overproduction and fast fashion ends up being incinerated or landfilled, adding to pollution and wasted resources. This low recycling rate can be explained by technical obstacles (complexity of fibres, lack of infrastructure, high sorting costs) and the absence, until recently, of strict standards prohibiting the destruction of unsold goods.

Since 2022, Europe's anti-waste law has required manufacturers to find alternatives to destroying unsold stock, opening the way to cross-sector collaboration: textile waste can be transformed into materials for insulation, cars or upholstery, reducing waste and promoting the circular economy. However, cooperation between sectors remains limited and the majority of used textiles do not find a second life.

In 2025, the European Union took a further step towards better management of these issues with the compulsory separate collection of textiles in all Member States. The directive aims to increase re-use and recycling, while imposing extended producer responsibility: brands will have to finance the collection, sorting and recycling of their products, and fees will be modulated according to the durability of the articles. The aim is to extend the life of textiles and limit the environmental impact of a sector responsible for 3.3 billion tonnes of CO₂ per year and 9% of microplastics in the oceans.

Despite these advances, less than 2% of textile waste is currently reconditioned into new garments, due to a fragmented value chain and a lack of communication between recycling players, associations and second-hand platforms. Production remains largely globalised, concentrated in Asia, and dominated by clothing that is not very durable.

To take this further, the EU is encouraging the relocation of textile production and the development of short supply chains, in order to reduce dependence on imports and strengthen the resilience of the sector. The new regulations also require producers to design textiles that are more sustainable and easily recyclable, while supporting the development of appropriate infrastructures for the collection and processing of textile waste.

(MH with LM - Sources : L'Expansion et We Demain - Picture : Unsplash)